In our house, store-bought bread is like one cedar waxing. It passes through in the spring and can be seen in the fall, but for the most part it is a rare bird. And that's okay. With me around, baking all the time, we have our own batch of bread: a chestnut saplingsor Japanese milk breadeven crackling baguettes. But every once in a while someone might see a plastic packet in the bin … we have a soft spot for English muffins.
Toothy and soft, with a bit of acidity and a crunchy crunch after a good toast – let's face it, English muffins are irresistible. And that's enough to get me into the kitchen. I love a challenge and I love to bake – what would it take to make a great version yourself?
After some research and a study of recipes, I have a sense of the ratios for the main ingredients (flour and water) and appreciate the usual methods. I also think about my idea of a perfect English muffin.
Here's what I want to achieve with my version:
- Cracks and fissures: A nice open structure with big bubbles that toasted well and gives a crunch. If the texture is dense, the English muffin will be too “bready” and heavy and will not brown well in the toaster.
- Taste: I want a bright flavor with lots of fermentation notes and some whole grains. Sourdough culture would work well here to bring in some flavor and counter the rich flavors of butter and jam or a poached egg and Hollandaise.
- Texture: A crispy exterior with crackle and color from a hot pan forms a perfect balance and backbone for the light interior.
With these hopes in hand, I find a basic recipe and set off.
First test: all purpose flourLESS yeast culturevery little yeastand a relatively short process.
how did it go
- Cracks and fissures: C+
The cracks were disappointing. While the overall result was light and fluffy, the texture was full of tiny, tiny bubbles. But I want big holes. - Taste: C
The flavor lacked depth and brightness. They were “bread” and quickly disappeared with comments like, “Best English muffin ever, Dad” … but that's because they were compared to the national brand. We can do better! - Texture: C+
The exterior browns well in the pan, but I wanted more crunch—more savory, toasty notes. A good amount of butter in the base dough gave great softness, in balance. We'll keep it (as long as it doesn't interfere with my nooks and crannies).
Martin Philip
Back to the drawing board
Since nothing really worked, I decide to go in a completely different direction and write my own recipe.
1. First challenge, fix the cracks
Knowing that the hardest part will be the cracks, that's where I start. Thinking about my tools of methods and doughs that produce a more open texture, I think of a dinner roll I made recently using our simple recipe, Sixfold Uncooked French Bread. She had given an excellent open crumb.
Martin Philip
I'm sure some aspects of the sixfold dough will translate well to muffins. That is why.
A dough that is over-fermented (with too much yeast) will often have a texture with many, many small holes. I blame overactivity for the first fine-textured test. With a little less activity (less yeast) and slightly wetter dough, I'm confident the texture will be open (similar to the roll above).
So my first change is to slow down the fermentation to improve the texture. I'm not trying to adjust the taste or texture with this test – I'm just working on the holes.
Works. The first test looks good. We have cracks.
Martin Philip
But the flavor and texture need work.
2. Next step, taste
To get brightness and light acidity, yeast culture is an obvious choice. I could also consider vinegar, but before I go that route I'll see what I can come up with with sourdough. Sourdough culture produces acetic acid as a by-product of fermentation – it may be sufficient. I do a preference with some whole grain flour to encourage flavor production and add an overnight cold rest for an extra boost of flavor and strength. With these changes, I'm ready for the next round of testing.
Sourdough works, maybe a little too well. The initial test is very acidic, but after a few more rounds I find the sweet spot. The result is bright flavor with good cracks. Next to the texture.
3. Last, quality
This should be easy. Instead of oatmeal, I choose cornmeal. Thicker than semolina, it will add crunch – plus it's nice and toasty. For an extra texture boost, I'll also sift in some cornmeal and add it to the batter itself. So, toasted cornmeal on the inside and some on the outside too: flavor and crumb.
Martin Philip
Finally I combine it all.
After a few more tests to adjust the size and method, I feel like I'm ready to move on. The goals I brought to the recipe—open nooks and crannies, bright flavor that can hold its own against rich toppings, and a toasty, toasty texture—satisfy me. And if that's not reason enough to wrap this up, our freezer is full of English Muffins (maybe I'll use this one to fill the bread… ).
Some final notes
I like these slices 3 1/2” in diameter, and I like them even bigger (4”) as they make a great egg sandwich or burger bun. I also recommend cutting into squares to avoid the whole problem of waste dough and re-rolling (which damages the texture). Look for instructions in the “tips” at bottom of the English Artisanal Muffins recipe page for details.
As I was closing this blog, I saw a bunch of waxworms burrowing into our apple tree. As they feast on what's left of this year's fruit, rushing to get through the shortened days and winter, they got me thinking: what does any of us need to reach spring? What will ease the journey until the leaves turn; until the snow melts; until the crapaple lights bloom fireworks and my cold recedes?
I need a vacation. I need family and friends and seasonal rituals. I need faces around the wood stove with warmth in the bowl. And I need the sun, English muffin rounds split with a fork, hot out of the pan. Carry on, friends. Let's bake it until we do. See you in March.
Cover image by Rick Holbrook.
