A twist of masses on the classic conch

Arturo Enciso i I like bread in Long Beach, California draws on his Mexican heritage in his artisan-style baking. Inspired by the cultural and culinary importance of the masa harina, he has incorporated it into Corn shell recipe for a fun twist on the classic conch.

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Although my parents are both from Mexico, they grew up with completely different tortillas at home. My father is from the bustling city of Ciudad de Mexico, while my mother grew up in the slower-paced north, in Chihuahua. In addition to the geographic and social differences between these two regions, there was also a culinary difference: my father grew up on fresh corn tortillas, while my mother's family made wheat tortillas for their daily meals. And in this duality of south and north, city and country, corn and wheat, they raised me in California. I valued both grains, as they were equally part of my heritage and identity.

Here in my oven I like breadboth wheat AND corn is at the heart of our identity. We make fresh masa from scratch and use it to make puff pastry, cakes and more. I also explored using masa harina in bread and quickly fell in love with the flavor combination of wheat and corn – it felt so comforting and nourishing both in substance (these are mighty grains) and in taste.

Arturo makes Conchas de Maíz in his mixer — At work in the bakery whipping up a batch of conch shells.

I don't always bake with corn. As a self-taught baker, I spent years developing my craft and honing my skills through recipes from American bakers, food that was almost all of European origin: pain au levain, galettes, English muffins, rye bread, etc. Eventually, I had a desire to expand beyond these styles to explore preparing and baking the foods I grew up with, such as shells AND the tortillas (both wheat and corn).

At the same time, I was forced to learn and practice nixtamalization, which is the ancient and magical process through which corn kernels are cooked in an alkaline solution and then ground to make masa or corn dough. This method is what allows us to digest and absorb the nutrients that corn has to offer, and it is the technology that helped native civilizations flourish in the Americas. Masa is a food tradition in itself and can be made into a multitude of dishes, both nutritious and delicious; through nixtamal we get hominy, the tortillasatolls, champurradotoast, tamales, tlayudas, and more. In these ways, corn was as important to the people of this continent as wheat and bread in Europe and the East.

Pan of corn husks next to bag of pastry flour — Given their roots, masa harina and concas feel like a natural pairing.

We took measures (which translates as dough flour) is ground nixtamalized corn; when it is combined with water it becomes dough (mass). Using masa harina to quickly have masa at your fingertips without having to go through the lengthy nixtamalization process is great. And through this alchemy of food, the flavors of the corn also change – they are strong and very aromatic, reminiscent of fresh corn on the cob. To me, this makes it a perfect ingredient to add to baked goods and pan dulce.

I was excited when King Arthur developed their masa harina because it meant more people would have access to explore this amazing food at home. I wanted to offer a recipe that would offer a fresh approach to this ancient ingredient while staying true to my beloved Mexican heritage. Conchas are a staple in any panadería – their sugary crust is usually a simple combination of flour, butter (or shortening) and sugar, with a flavored powder (chocolate, vanilla, etc.). In our bakery, we make cones with a pinch of cocoa powder, for example. Since King Arthur finely grinds her flour, I thought it would make a great concha topping with a wonderful crisp texture and toasted corn flavor, so I started baking.

Beat the top of the masa harina for the cones in the mixer — Thoroughly rubbing the masa harina topping is crucial to success; it can take up to 15 to 20 minutes, so be patient.

When making this masa harina topping for your cones, I recommend mixing the ingredients until they are super smooth and creamy, almost like Play-Doh. You want it to hold its shape; if it crumbles it needs more time in the mixer. The element that makes the biggest difference here is the butter (type, temperature and quality). For best results, use a high-fat butter (about 80%) and let it sit at room temperature until it's pliable. If that's not an option, just beat the butter on high with an electric mixer until smooth.

Placing the tops of the unbaked masa harina cookies on the rolls — A light coating of flour on your hands can help prevent the tip of the conch from sticking too much if it's hard to handle.

During mixing, the surface should become a soft but uniform paste that does not crumble easily. Be patient, it can take up to 15 to 20 minutes! Stop and check the dough and scrape the bowl as needed until it comes together and can be broken up, patted, and applied to your conch shells. If the surface is too soft and sticks to your hands, try dusting them with a little flour or even a layer of water.

Bread with unbaked corn on the cob — The shells are ready for the oven.

Corn Husk Flake Casserole — Allow the baked conch to cool for at least 15 minutes before serving, then dig in.

In the end, my baking resulted in a roll with a hint of maíz on top of the crunchy conch that pairs wonderfully with the buttery soft roll below. When I eat one Corn shell, I am reminded of a sweet tamale made in a pan, with a soft bun and toasted sweet corn crust. I hope you enjoy making this recipe and enjoying the unique interplay of flavors and textures between wheat and corn that continue to inspire me as a baker.

Cover photo by Mitchell Maher.

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