I've always found making tortillas at home to be a satisfying project. To make them, start with masa, made from dried field corn, which has been nixtamalized by cooking the grains in an alkaline solution of water and calcium hydroxide or wood ash. The nixtamalized corn can then be ground into fresh flour or dehydrated masa harina (pastry flour), a convenient, shelf-stable ingredient.
Recently, rehydrating the harina with warm water and boiling the mixture reminded me of the tactile feel of Play-Doh, which inspired me to think about all the brilliant colors I used to play with as a child and how they could transform the measure I was preparing.
Adding vibrant hues to the masses isn't new: It has a long history among indigenous people, as Andrea Aliseda explains in her story about The indigenous tradition of colored masses. Ceremonial tortillas served as a way to preserve religious tradition during the Spanish conquest, when indigenous people were converting to Christianity. Although seemingly whimsical, these designs serve as a cultural homage to Mexican tradition, embodying the craft of cooking and respect for ingredients, honoring both the past and the lucky recipient of the tortilla. Modern chefs are now adopting this tradition and making brightly colored tortillas, artfully decorated with geometric patterns, abstract marble, and even flowers.
To color my batter, I searched my spice cabinet for more pigmented spices: smoked paprika, turmeric, and even black charcoal powder. I didn't have an endgame, so I started mixing batters with hopeful abandon. I ended up with a galaxy tortillas looking for coloring. I shared them on Instagram, to which my friend replied: “Some of those black and red ones are giving me Donald Sultan's Vips. I immediately searched and found the artist's iconic poppy paintings. With a simple Google search, my obsession with Flower Corn Tortillas it started
If you'd like to try making tortillas with colors and designs at home, here are some instructions.
Holly Haines
How to color your mass
Add colorful dry ingredients: An easy way to color the dough is with highly pigmented dry spices like smoked paprika and turmeric. Other dry ingredients such as charcoal powder, purple powder and beetroot powder can also be added to the masa harina. The amount you add to the masa harina will depend on how rich you want the color. I find that 4 to 8 teaspoons per 2 1/2 cups (231 g) of stock is enough to add color and a little flavor, without going overboard, depending on the seasoning. Start with the lowest amount and gradually increase from there.
The basic recipe doesn't change much with the addition of coloring ingredients, but some spices and dry powders may require more warm water to be added to the batter. If you're not sure if the dough is moist enough, use one of my favorites There was Jinich tips: Press a massa ball in a tortilla press and check the edges for cracks. Cracks are a sign that the dough needs more water; mix with a teaspoon and press again until you have smooth edges.
Add colorful liquids: Coloring warm water added to masa harina is another way to add pigment. For the pink dough, use a tea made from flor de jamaica (hibiscus flowers) steeped in hot water to rehydrate the masa harina: Boil about 1/2 cup flor de jamaica in 2 cups (454 g) hot water for 10 minutes, strain out the flowers and measure out 1 2/3 cups (378 g) of the tea, reserving the remaining tea in case your dough needs more hydration. Add in 2 1/2 cups (231 g) masa harina and continue with basic recipe for the pink dough.
Chillies can also add color and a strong flavor, as shown here Tacos Rojos (Red Tacos) recipe.. For the smoky, light orange batter, I like to puree 2 canned chili peppers in adobo with 2 cups (454 g) water. Measure out 1 2/3 cups (378 g) of the chipotle water, reserving the remaining liquid in case your dough needs more hydration. Combine with 2 1/2 cups (231 g) masa harina.
How to make yellow, black or orange masa
This method makes a quarter batch of basic tortilla recipe. I love making multi-colored dough, which I use to create multi-colored tortilla designs (more on that below!). As a result, I find smaller groups easier to work with and less wasteful.
- 2/3 cup (60 g) masa harina
- turmeric, activated charcoal powder (see note) or smoked paprika
- pinch of salt
- 6 tablespoons + 1 teaspoon (95 g) of warm water
To add color, mix dry spices or powders with masa harina before adding warm water.
For the yellow mass: Add 1 teaspoon ground turmeric
For the black mass: Add 1 1/4 teaspoons of powdered activated charcoal (see note)
For orange mass: Add 2 teaspoons of smoked paprika
Combine masa harina, salt and toppings to your liking. Gradually add the warm water, mixing with your hands to make a cohesive dough.
Note: Activated charcoal powder, in amounts from 50 to 100 grams, can interfere with the absorption of some medicines. There is a small amount of charcoal (just a few grams) per serving per tortilla, but please keep that in mind if it's a concern.
Holly Haines
How to make colorful masa tortilla designs
You can use your colored masa to make plain tortillas with rich hues. Or take things a step further and combine different colors to make whimsical designs, like flowers (corn “flower” tortillas … get it?).
I think 3 to 4 different colored doughs are good for experimenting with designs. I start with a whole bunch of basic tortilla recipe, without color additives. This serves as a “canvas” for designs. For colored batters, make quarter batches of the basic recipe, each colored separately.
For each design, start with a ball of your base color dough, between 25 and 30 grams (about 1 1/2 to 2 tablespoons). Place the dough in the plastic-lined tortilla press and gently press in half, flattening the dough into a disc about 3″ wide. Lift the press and plastic liner, then begin adding the colored dough on top in the chosen pattern. The design will eventually to be pressed and it will expand, so take care to leave some space between the colored dough elements so that they remain distinct after being pressed, place the plastic sheet back over the design and press the tortilla until it is 5″ up to 6″. Raise the press, carefully remove the plastic and proceed to cook the tortillas, according to the basic recipe.
Holly Haines
Holly Haines
For a floral design: Start with an 8- to 10-gram (about 1 1/2 teaspoons) ball of dough, in each color, then divide into 5 small balls 1/4″ and 1/2″ in diameter for the petals. Pinch one end of the ball at a point, then flatten slightly to create a teardrop (or petal!) shape. Place the petal on top of the base dough, with the pointed edge toward the center. Repeat with the remaining balls, pressing into petal shapes and placing in a circular shape on top of the base dough. Add another small ball, about 1/8″ in diameter, in the center where the petal points meet, for the “pistil” of the flower. Place your tortilla pattern back into the press, between the plastic and press down, flattening into a about between 5″ and 6″.
Holly Haines
Holly Haines
For polka dots: Divide about 10 grams (about 1 1/2 teaspoons) of colored dough into 10 very small dough balls; place a dot on top of the 3″ tortilla base and press again.
For a sunset scene: Start by rolling together 15 grams (about 1 tablespoon) of base dough with 15 grams of orange dough to create a slightly marbled or gradient effect, press in half, then moisten the center with a 5 gram (about 1 teaspoon) ball of dough yellow. . Press again and freeze to enjoy your artwork.
This should get your creative tortilla design juices flowing. Simple designs tend to yield the best results, while attempting more complicated designs can give a good laugh upon discovery.
Celebrate your masa masterpiece by stacking tortillas with whatever fillings you choose. If you're not quite happy with your creation, simply flatten that dough to make a coloring pattern, then press it again and add another design on top. Anyway, those tortillas end up looking the prettiest.
For a recipe with built-in dyes, try Pati Jinich's Tacos Rojos (Red Tacos) with Queso Fresco and Salsa Verde. Or customize your own colors and patterns starting with this one Corn tortillas recipe.
Cover photo by Rick Holbrook; food styling by Kaitlin Wayne.
