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I resisted buying one Detroit style pizza pan for a long time. Not because I don't like the style of pizza this pan is intended for: I mean, who can resist a rectangular pizza with a thick, chewy, crispy crust, topped with cheese that's spread to the edges on way it caramelizes against the sides of the high sided pan?
I resisted, mainly because I already have a drawer full of baking dishes (so full, in fact, that I have to do some heroics—including laying on the ground and pushing myself with my feet—to close the drawer). Eventually, though, I snapped. I had to make this pizza at home. And while I may have bought the pizza pan, I soon discovered that's not all it's good for.
What makes this pan so special?
In general, aluminum is a good choice for baking dishes because it is light but conducts heat well. The heavier the pan gauge, the heavier (and less susceptible to warping) it will be. Beyond the weight of the pan, its color can also affect your baking. Typically, we recommend using a lighter-colored aluminum pan if you're baking a cake or something else you don't want to brown significantly, because a dark metal pan absorbs and dissipates heat faster and better than a lighter in color. . But if you dream of crusts and fried, crispy edges, a pan with a darker, heavier gauge will help you make that dream come true.
of Detroit style pizza pan, manufactured in Washington state by LloydPans, is nearly black in color, thanks to the anodizing process—in which the pan undergoes an electrolytic process that involves immersing the pan in a chemical bath and then applying an electric current to it— causing an oxide layer to be produced. The oxide solidifies in the pan, leaving it with a dark, extremely durable, non-reactive, rust- and stick-resistant coating.
Photography by Rick Holbrook; food styling by Kaitlin Wayne
This is especially useful when you are making one Detroit-style Magpie, as one of the hallmarks of this style is an extremely generous amount of cheese that spreads from lip to lip, baking into a lovely border of lace and cheese. If you were to bake this pizza in a standard non-aluminum pan, the chances of getting that characteristic frico would be slim, and the probability of it sticking? Up. But baked in an anodized pan? Look mom, no sticky! Additionally, the edge and bottom of your pizza will be nicely browned. And because the pan is made of heavier aluminum, it resists warping, even when you're baking something at high heat, like this White Pizza with Garlic Broccoli Rabe OR TAiwanese Bakery Sourbough Focaccia (The company says the pan and liner are heat safe up to 700°F).
Of course, it's great for pizza. But what else can I do with this pan?
I would expect a pan that was specifically designed for pizza to make good pizzas. But I couldn't justify buying a pan that was only good for pizza.
If you like crispy edges, the Detroit-style pizza pan will quickly earn its keep. I used the pan for a batch of busty blondes, expecting that the dark coating of the pan may improve their coloring. Pan Delivered: My blondes were magnificently browned throughout, with a deep golden streak at the ends. That tan translates to flavor (lots of toasty, roasted notes) and texture (crunch!). The same was true for short breadwhich developed an irresistible nutty brown butter flavor where the dough met the edges of the pan.
Jessica Battilana
Beyond pizza and butter cookies, the skillet also does well corn bread better: I preheated it with a coating of bacon fat before pouring it into a double batch of dough, and the resulting cornbread had the crunch that ties it to cornbread baked in a cast iron skillet. And I can't wait to use the pan for my next batch granola bars.
What should I not use this pan for?
Admittedly, this pan can't do it all. If you're a fan of soft, gooey bakes (or you're making a recipe, like a cake, where a soft, gooey texture is essential), the Detroit-style pizza pan is not the bakeware I'd suggest to choose. Because of its excellent conductivity and the dark coating of the pan, you can't help but brown things, especially if those things contain sugar, which caramelizes the more it's exposed to heat.
But if you're a fan of crust, a fan of toasty edges, and a fan of crunch—or even if you only ever use the pan for a crunch Pick-Your-Tan PizzaGolden pretzel focaccia, or fully charged Taiwanese Dough Focacciait's a workhorse of a pan that earns its keep.
From Bundts to Half-Sheets (and more!), browse our collection of pans.
Cover photo (Pick-Your-Tan Pizza) by Rick Holbrook; food styling by Kaitlyn Wayne.
