On the list of phrases that send shivers down the spine of ovens, “Fold gently, making sure not to blow the egg whites” ranks high. (Other candidates include: “Carefully turn the cake upside down”; “Fill the water bath”; “Soften the chocolate” and “Unwrap the Bundt.”)
When you're making a recipe that relies on beaten eggs or egg whites for lightness and texture—such as angel food cake, chiffon cake, fluffy wafflesOR Japanese Style Souffle Cheesecake — The success of the finished product depends on keeping the air you beat into those eggs. For a light, melt-in-your-mouth texture and a tall, even rise, it's important to incorporate the eggs or egg whites into the batter (or the dry ingredients into the eggs) firmly enough that your mixture is smooth. (nobody wants a strip of flour or a bite of egg), but gently enough that air bubbles don't pop and deflate. If they do, your baked product can come out flat and dense – not ideal. (This can also happen with egg-free applications, such as whipped cream.)
Like many bakers, I've always taken this step with some hesitation and, as I was taught long ago, a rubber spatula, a tool that provides the leverage and flexibility needed to dig to the bottom of the bowl with large, comprehensive. But that all changed when I baked Charlotte Rutledge's Japanese Style Souffle Cheesecakein which she instructs to fold in beaten egg whites a whip. You heard me: a whip.
Photography by Rick Holbrook; food styling by Kaitlin Wayne
Why a whip is better for folding
It may seem counterintuitive to use a whip for folding (especially if you, like me, have spent your life using a spatula), but it makes a lot of sense: A whip may not be as flexible as a spatula, but in any stroke , you can incorporate more white (and faster) because the contact points are spread over all the whip wires, instead of two flat sides of the shoulder. The wide, open structure of the whisk allows it to move through the batter more efficiently and with less direct force, meaning you're less likely to pop bubbles. And the more bubbles, the lighter your finished product.
Once you have secured medium or large beat it (save the kneading and beating of the dough for another time), use it in the same way as a spatula: Make a cutting motion in the center of the bowl, towards you, then remove the dough from the bottom and bring it up and up. tip in a circular motion. Swirl the bowl as you work to make sure you are incorporating the egg whites from all directions and continue until the mixture is smooth.
With this tip, you can cross the “soft fold” off your too-dreaded-to-attempt list. The other: Bundt Cake!
Cover photo by Rick Holbrook; food styling by Kaitlin Wayne.
