If you’re interested in growing longer, stronger hair, chances are you’ve come across castor oil in your search. The ingredient dates back to Ancient Egypt, and is still prized for its beauty benefits. But what, exactly, are those benefits? We talked to Ann Kohatsu, product developer at Ceremonia, and Psyche Terry, founder of Urban Hydration, for more intel on the centuries-old hair oil, including whether it can really help with hair growth, and how to incorporate it into your haircare routine.
What is castor oil?
“Castor oil is a vegetable oil that comes from seeds of the castor bean (Ricinus communis),” Kohatsu explains. There are two types of castor oil: cold pressed and heat processed. “Cold-pressed castor oil is extracted from castor seeds under great pressure. This results in a lighter and thinner form of oil, because it doesn’t undergo the roasting process. Heat-processed castor oil (often called black castor oil) is roasted and processed under high temperatures. It is thicker in consistency and is typically dark brown in color with a slightly burnt scent,” she adds.
According to the product developer, the largest difference between the two types of castor oil is just how they’re processed. “There are differences in color and composition that result from the different processing methods (weight, color, scent), but in terms of benefits for the hair and scalp, the nutritional factors do not differ greatly,” she says.
What are the benefits of castor oil for hair?
Castor oil really is all that. There are tons of ways to use it—Kohatsu says it can operate like a cleansing oil for hair, prevent moisture loss or color fade, and improve hair quality naturally by being antibacterial and anti-inflammatory. “When we were in the beginning stages of formulating a new haircare collection, we wanted a main ingredient that really did everything,” Terry adds. “This oil has antibacterial and anti-fungal properties that help prevent dandruff (which is so helpful in colder months) and scalp infections.”
According to the expert, “It also helps improve hair growth, combat split ends, helps with breakage—the list goes on and on.” This makes castor oil ideal for anyone with thick and/or dry hair, as well as for those looking to grow their hair longer and stronger.
Does castor oil really help your hair grow?
This is a big probably. “There are limited studies that demonstrate castor oil’s direct effect on hair growth. However, there are many indicators that suggest that it could certainly play an indirect role in contributing to the healthy growth of hair,” Kohatsu explains. The oil’s ricinoleic acid increases scalp blood flow, which can promote healthier hair and growth while also cutting down on inflammation.
There may also be indirect hair-thickening benefits: “Castor oil also has antimicrobial properties, which help to keep out harmful bacteria and protect the scalp from diseases and infections. All of this suggests that castor oil can most certainly aid in optimizing the health of the scalp—which, of course, leads to healthier hair growth,” she adds. (“It can also help with lash growth,” says Terry. “A little inside tip!”)
How do you use castor oil on hair?
Castor oil is available as both a raw ingredient and as a component in hair products. If you go with a thicker castor oil, you might not love the feeling of applying it right onto your hair, or how much work it’ll take to rinse it off in the shower. “Formulating castor oil into a product allows for a more hair-appropriate viscosity and enhanced benefits,” says Kohatsu. “For instance, if you want the benefits of castor oil but you are also looking to have a beautiful scent accompany the experience, or your damaged hair needs more repairing properties than what castor oil alone cannot provide, or you want the oil to be even lighter in texture than straight castor oil … then this route is probably the way to go.”
Though, of course, you can still go straight to the source. Terry recommends massaging your hair with raw Jamaican castor oil if you want to help it grow. “You will massage the oil into your scalp, which will stimulate the root and promote growth,” she says. Just make sure you’re ready for a round or two of clarifying shampoo down the line.