In Taiwan, where I live, flatbreads are versatile and springy. They can be folded into countless smooth layers, flavored with onions and lard, then shaped to hold all manner of fillings—from eggs and sausage to oozing cheddar cheese. Crisp on the outside but soft and fluffy on the inside, these flatbreads are a textural delight.
The secret? Boiling water.
Combining scalding hot liquid with flour is an old trick for baking bread. Although this technique is more widely known in East Asian baking, it is universal, from the French bouilli of pain (porridge bread) on burnt Scandinavian rye bread.
And it is especially important for soft and elastic breads in countless forms: In Mexico, it is used to make flexible flour tortillaswhereas in India, it is she who does roti so flexible. Here's why.
Photography by Rick Holbrook; food styling by Kaitlin Wayne
How hot water works
When hot water is mixed with flour, the heat partially denatures the flour proteins and reduces gluten formation. Gluten is the protein in dough which gives it its structure and elasticity. (You can see it in action at length window glass testwhere you stretch a piece of dough until it becomes thin and translucent without tearing.) For some breads you need that strong gluten formation – it's what gives the dough strength, which in turn supports a good rise. But in flat bread, that gluten can be a hindrance. Hot water effectively weakens that stretch – the gluten will still form, but the dough won't have the same bounce as a rubber band; this, in turn, results in a softer and more pliable dough.
Photography by Ed Anderson; food styling by Rebecca Jurkevich; Prop styling by Gerri Williams
Softer dough that stretches well
A hot water dough is easier to manipulate because it doesn't have the same elasticity as doughs where you need strong gluten development, so it can stretch more easily. Pancakes with onionsa recipe from King Arthur's future The Big Book of Bread, AND shou zhua bing (Chinese breads) both benefit from this technique: The hot water dough can be stretched and rolled many times and shaped without becoming hard or unworkable. Some steamed noodle recipes use a hot water batter to achieve paper-thin wrappers, and it's also how the utensil skins can be rolled paper-thin but still brown beautifully in the pan. (In contrast, doughs made without hot water have a firmer consistency and are more difficult to roll out.)
Moist bread and longer shelf life
Beyond just affecting gluten formation, adding boiling water to the dough makes it wetter. Hot water pre-gelatinizes the flour starches so they absorb more liquid; the retained moisture prevents the bread from becoming dry or crumbly and promotes a softer texture, making it especially great for flexible breads that need to be folded, such as tortillas and soft bread rolls. (This method can also be used for flat breads that do not use wheat flour, such as corn tortillas. Hot water helps the dough bind better and makes it less likely to crack.)
Photography by Kristin Teig; food styling by Liz Neily
It's also a great storage technique. If you've ever left bread out and noticed it going stale, it's because of a process called starch retrogradation. As the bread cools, the starch crystallizes, drawing out moisture and causing the bread to dry out. Because hot water dough locks in more moisture, these flatbreads stay fresh longer, and as a result, using hot water dough is a great way to extend their shelf life.
How to use this method successfully
In a large bowl, gradually pour the boiling water into the flour, stirring as you add it with the handle end of a wooden spoon or chopsticks. Do not pour out all the water at once, as this can lead to uneven hydration or clumping. Flour and hot water mixed together will form a stiff dough. Then, transfer the dough to a lightly floured surface and knead until smooth.
Don't be afraid to experiment; The hot water dough technique is versatile in creating softer, longer lasting baked goods. So, the next time you're making flatbread, consider grabbing the kettle.
Find more clever techniques and well-tested recipes at The Big Book of Breadavailable for pre-order now and launching on October 22nd!
Cover photo by Rick Holbrook; food styling by Kaitlin Wayne.
