One of my uncle's favorite sweets is buckram. He will open one in his mouth, widen his eyes with delight, and cry out how true it is. wasted.
Every time I go back to my hometown in South Carolina, I try to get them a set. Emphasis on “try.” Because the only thing about South Carolina is that it's constantly humid, and humidity is the enemy of meringue.
That's because these simple cakes are made from whipped egg whites and sugar, and most importantly, they're baked low and slow (usually between 200°F and 250°F) over a long period of time until to dry completely. Completely. This is what gives them their characteristic crunchy texture. If the atmosphere is humid or rainy, the meringues absorb the moisture in the air because sugar is hygroscopic – in other words, it attracts water. As it absorbs moisture, the meringues become sticky and soft instead of dry and crisp. If they are not eaten immediately, before the moisture reaches them, it is basically a disaster.
Photography by Erica Allen; food styling by Liz Neily
Because of this unfortunate climate limitation, I previously only made meringues during the drier winter months. But not anymore: Now, I'm using my fridge to make meringues regardless of the weather. No one is more excited than my uncle.
The trick is to store the baked and chilled meringues in the refrigerator, where the dry, cold air prevents them from absorbing moisture and losing their crispness. This means you can make simple meringue cookies anytime, yes, but you'll also have so many other treats waiting at your fingertips.
Bake a big batch of pavlova shells (full size or mini) and put in your freezer – you'll be able to pull one out, make several Confectionery slush and macerate some fruit and you have an easy, summery pavlova ready to enjoy in minutes (and, especially, without turning on the oven). Or you can be crushed meringue cookies and put them in a serving dish with whipped cream and fruit or jam for an elegant rustic Eton mess.
Photography by Erica Allen; food styling by Liz Neily
A few tips for success: Wrap the meringues tightly or store them in an airtight container, as you don't want these simple, flavorful desserts to take the flavors out of your refrigerator. Some of our favorite freezer-friendly picks are these rectangular containers with stacked lids and this Acrylic box with 19 airtight cups.
When packing for the fridge, keep in mind how delicate meringues are. If you have a large batch, you can lay them flat in a single layer on a baking sheet or cardboard, then wrap tightly (and place them on top of everything else in your freezer so they don't get crushed). Or place gently in a layered freezer safe container parchment in the middle.
Also, be sure to remove the meringues from their container when you take them out of the freezer and let them thaw. The inside of the bowl can get condensation as it warms, introducing moisture and affecting the texture of the meringue. If you take them out of the freezer on a very humid day, you can also put them in a low oven for a while so they can brown further.
And another tip for keeping meringue stable during hot, humid weather: As covered in our previous post on meringue rulesyou can mix a few teaspoons of cornstarch with the sugar to help absorb any extra liquid in your meringue and prevent it from weeping.
Now, any season can be meringue season, regardless of the weather. Someone go tell my uncle.
Need a refresher on meringue making? We have you:
Cover photo by Kristin Teig; food styling by Liz Neily.
