Soggy doughs have become the baking drag race. Two bakers, split bars, spinning at the starting line like, “What's your hydration?” And, “Oh, yeah?! I go way above that that!”
There's no denying that Instagram and social media whet the appetite for horsepower, high hydration, open crumb, sailboat “ears,” and intricate shaping—all trademarks of highly hydrated doughs. It is also clear that many bakers have their foot on the gas, rushing towards this challenge. But is there a point in it? Are we on the right track?
When it comes to bread, is moister really better?
What exactly is “high moisture” bread?
High hydration bread refers to bread with a high water to flour ratio by weight. IN baker's percentages, we are talking about doughs that often have more than 80% hydration. In some cases, hydration may exceed 100% due to cravings for high protein or whole grain flours (such as bread flour OR whole wheat). In those situations, the recipe has more water than flour.
High water ratios, when combined with active fermentation and good gluten development (through time, mixing and folding), have the potential to open the crumbs (or “alveolar structure”) of loaves. Firm, moist dough comes out well in the oven, forming nicely “ears” and, if given time in cold fermentation, a bubbly crust. But for many, the most coveted feature of high-moisture breads is their dramatically open crumb or alveolar structure. In other words, it's all about the holes.
Chasing the hole-y grail
You've probably seen some of these loaves on Instagram, cut open to reveal an open crumb. Bakers like it Kristen Dennis, AddieAND Claudio share photos and instructions that guide bakers to lacy, towering beauties, and their work is undeniably gorgeous.
The genesis of this approach is difficult to trace, but it is not new. My favorite image of a baker is an antique black and white photo taken in a dark French cellar. Piled at the edge of his shaping area, glistening with moisture, thin doughs await their turn to become thin loaves. The photo is almost 100 years old. Clearly, this is more than a trend.
Today, bakeries like Prager Brothers in Carlsbad, California and Night movements in Biddeford, Maine would likely classify much of what they produce as “high hydration.” (I made a video of Night Moves' anadam bread — you can see for yourself how sticky it is.) And they're not alone. All over the country, bakers are producing long-fermented loaves with an open texture and buttered crust, often labeled “Country Bread,” with each city adding its own twist to the style.
What are these doughs to work with?
If your bread comfort zone revolves around strong pan bread, bread with toppingsAND enriched bread, you may find higher hydration doughs like anadama from Night Moves difficult to handle. Sometimes sticky, these doughs benefit from a delicate touch and may require new techniques: like folding instead of boiling and free shaping. And they take time to make – bad news if you're out of bread. With many hours in between preferenceextended mass fermentation and overnight cold rise, patience is an unlisted ingredient.
But for me, they have their rewards. On my list of minor miracles is the transformation of wheat from hard glassy grain to powder into a smooth, cohesive mass… I am speechless every time. But wet doughs resist this miracle. They lack structure, they stick in my hands, they talk to me like a teenager.
And that's okay. I am patient. I leave, I remind myself that the environment is good, my flour is strong, my culture is healthy – the dough will come around. And when I go back to check in a few hours, I can feel the difference. The mood in the bowl becomes cooperative, bonds are formed, gluten is strengthened, knitting itself without moving in suspension. Confidence is restored and the next thing I know, I'm shaping, calming, and maturing, and a well-formed child is on his way to college.
So is moister better when it comes to bread?
Maybe. Sometimes. Not always.
Great bread is made when hydration matches the needs of a type of bread or dough. Some are happy with less, some have a sweet spot in the middle, and others need to push the limits. Let's take a closer look.
A firm dough with lower hydration has great applications in baking. Of the buns that look better with definition (like with braids challah), to bagels OR pretzel, which have a more closed crumb structure and are chewed with teeth, excess water can ruin the day. In these breads, wetter is not better.
In the Goldilocks zone between firm and loose, a dough with medium hydration supports one high rise bread that handles nicely and contains enough water to keep bread moist for days (if it lasts that long). The crunch with these doughs isn't tight, but it's not so loose that sandwich condiments end up on your shoe. Here, just keep it in the middle – supple and flexible. To these breads I say, come on how you are: like dating in sweatpants on the couch, don't change.
And with doughs with high hydration like ciabatta or pan de cristal, a moist, soft dough of sufficient strength is essential. Too little water will leave them dense and, while still tasty, they won't have the thin crust and lacy interior that is characteristic of the style. Yes, they take time – there is one learning curve, but with practice, your rewards will hit the table. Yes, wetter is better!
Where can you start?
When people ask for a starting point for a lean but manageable sourdough recipe, I often recommend our Country bread. It's an everyday bread in my house, and while at 80% hydration it's not as soft as some you'll see, you'll enjoy how these doughs behave without falling apart. You may also find this related blog about Pain de Campagne helpful. And, if you'd rather watch and learn (I recommend both!), here's a video that shows how to make this bread recipe.
Cover photo by Mark Weinberg.
