Smash burgers have been all the rage for a few years now, but you know what could be even better? Break the cookies.
Thanks to baker to the stars Zoë Francois for the inspiration. In her latest cookbook, Zoë bakes cookiesit includes a recipe for Smash Cookies, which are flattened with a spatula at the end of baking, resulting in a thick, dense cookie with a crunchy crust.
The stroke of innovation, however, was a bit of an accident. It began with an attempt to replicate Levain Bakery's famous chocolate chip cookies—massive, ball-like cookies with crispy, fried exteriors and melty, doughy centers. But while testing her version, “I just wasn't madly in love with the results when they were so big straight out of the oven, even though that's what I was trying to do at first,” Zoë recalls. “In a fit of inspiration, to save the group, I grabbed a shoulder and broke it. The result was a cookie that had a better ratio of toasty edges and a great center.” The broken cookie was born.
It's a technique that caught the eye of King Arthur's Test Kitchen director Sarah Jampel, who immediately knew she had to try it. “I thought the technique was so much fun!” she says. “And I couldn't wait to apply it to a cookie where I wanted the inside to stay soft and fluffy.” The result, after many tests, was these super-sizes Crushed Oatmeal-Date Cookies (which have quickly become a cult favorite around King Arthur's office, including for yours truly).
Photography by Patrick Marinello; food styling by Kaitlin Wayne
In this recipe, Sara expands on Zoe's original technique and breaks the cookies not once, but twice. The first crack occurs at the end of baking, when the very large cookies have puffed up dramatically in the oven. But then, after they've been flattened with the back of a spatula, the cookies go back into the off oven for an extra five minutes. The residual heat helps the cookies cook all the way through, during which they puff up a bit again. Once removed, they are broken with a spatula for a second and final time. The result? Cookies with a dense, soft interior and a cracker crust. “I think it's a great way to play with it if you're a texture seeker, craving cookies with crisp edges and firm bottoms, but soft, squishy centers,” says Sarah.
Zoë notes in her cookbook that cookie size matters – make them smaller and they won't achieve the right texture. As Sarah explains, “The bigger the cookie, the more contrast you'll have because more of the cookie will stay insulated from the heat, and therefore soft, while the dough balls bake.” A smaller cookie, meanwhile, would bake too quickly and therefore lose its soft texture. (And also, who doesn't love a giant cookie?!) Zoë also says that “making sure the dough is super chilled is key, and the longer you leave the dough balls in the fridge, the more dramatic the blow “
Photography by Patrick Marinello; food styling by Kaitlin Wayne
Fortunately, this technique can be used on other cookies, as long as they're large—aim for about 80 grams of dough, or roughly 2″ balls. (A level scoop and muffin it works well here.) I recently baked Sugar cookies using the pounding technique that results in crunchy yet chewy cookies that retain their soft interior. Next, I will try this technique my favorite chocolate chip cookies.
One final note: according to Zoe, your choice of flour can make a difference. “Protein Content of King Arthur's All purpose flour (11.7%) is perfect for these cookies, as it helps retain their shape during baking,” she recommends.
Cover photo by Patrick Marinello; food styling by Kaitlin Wayne.
